Kutna Hora

by Ucman Scher
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Solo Trip Guide to Kutna Hora

I am quite sure you must have seen the video of a Church made up of bones in multiple Facebook videos. I saw one as well and got curious about the place. Well, it was a good thing because it turns out the church is located inside one of the treasures of Czechia; Kutna Hora.

Fun Fact: Kutna Hora used to be the second biggest city in the kingdom of Bohemia but these days it is a sleepy town of 21,000 people only.

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A beautiful building in the Kutna Hora

Kutna Hora is located in the Central Bohemia region and very close to the capital, Prague. It makes a perfect day trip from Prague and it is very easy to get here and back in a single day.

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Getting to Kutna Hora

Kutna Hora is very close to Prague and very easy to travel between the cities using trains.

By Train

From Prague, trains leave from the  Central station (Hlavní nádraží). There is a train every hour roughly, you can check the schedule on the IDOS website here. Travel time is roughly an hour and most trains are direct which arrive at the main station outside the city called Kutná Hora hlavní nádraží. From here the bone church or Sedlec Ossuary is an easy 15 minutes walk.

Alternatively, you can take the local train to the city centre, Kutna Hora město station which is on these old-style train and three stops away to the city centre. On the same local train, the Bone Church is one stop away.

The local train to city centre

By Bus

You can also take the bus from Prague but it will take longer. The schedule is here and buses usually leave from Florenc or Háje stations.

I took the train because the fare difference wasn’t huge and it was a lot more comfortable and convenient.

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How to Explore Kutna Hora

I am assuming you will be visiting the city for the bone church only and head back once done but there’s a lot more to this beautiful city and it is definitely worth a proper visit. I started by heading to Sedlec Ossuary from the main station and after spending an hour there I took the shuttle to the Church of Santa Barbara followed by a stroll through the town and took the train back from the metro station to the main station to take the train back to Prague.

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One Day Itninerary for Kutna Hora

The main train station in Prague is located much further than I had imagined. I took the taxi and headed to avoid missing by 10am train. The station was slightly confusing as well but I managed to find my train and soon I was headed to Kutna Hora. The train was comfortable and modern and there were lots of other people obviously headed that way with the excitement of a new discovery.

Tip: Make sure to head there early because the place gets full of tourists especially tourist buses.

I started walking towards the Bone Church (I will call it Sedlec ossuary now because it feels weird to still call it Bone Church). It was a beautiful spring day with the sun shining and lots of flowers around. The walk was also pleasant and even before I could get in, I spotted a mammoth church (and mistook it for Church of St. Barbara).

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Cathedral of Assumption of Our Lady and St. John the Baptist

The cathedral of Assumption is massive, it really has a presence and despite knowing I was being sidetracked I decided to pop in, it was a quick detour but totally worth it.

Cathedral of Assumption of Our Lady and St. John the Baptist, Kutna Hora

It is grand outside with a beautiful and bright roof. The interior is quite simple and surprisingly yellow, the sunlight made it more intense.

Sedlec Ossuary Bone Church

Website – https://www.sedlec.info/en/

Entry Fee – CZK 90

The anticipation had built up by now and I was walking towards Sedlec Ossuary. There were a few tourists headed that way so there was no difficulty finding it. It is a small building with not much decoration outside.

The only sign of grandeur outside the Sedlec Ossuary

The whole compound comprises of a 14th century High Gothic upper chapel and an ossuary and most people come to see the Ossuary which is made up of bones.

The entrance of Sedlec ossuary

I purchased the ticket and headed inside. The entrance is quite small and the decorations start to appear but they are quite basic with a bit of a chandelier. The stairs going down were also quite simple.

At this point, the real confusion starts whether it is macabre or not because it is built so beautifully that even I’d donate my bones to be part of a work of art like this. The Ossuary is bigger than it looks from outside. The lighting on the mounds of bones made it so dreamy.

One thing I did notice was that no matter how you see it, it doesn’t come across as scary. I spent half an hour exploring different nooks and crannies and I couldn’t find any hints of shoddy work. Everything was perfect.

To the Sedlec Chapel

I headed up finally to see the Chapel and to my surprise, it was the exact opposite of the ossuary; simple!

So much so that the entire visit ended in a single minute and I didn’t even bother taking a photo. I spent some time chilling int he sunw waiting for the shuttle bus to St. Barbara Church.

Church of Santa Barbara

Website – https://khfarnost.cz/en/st-barbaras-cathedral/

Entry Fee – CZK 120

The shuttle didn’t take long and dropped me in front of the Church of Santa Barbara. I was amazed by how grand this building was. It was built in the late 14th century and it is a Roman Catholic Church. Some people often call it Cathedral of Santa barbara because of its style but officially it is a church. It is a Gothic in architectural style and the interior is simple but prestigious and elegant.

Fun Fact: Kutna hora was a silver mining town and Santa Barbara was the patron saint of miners.

The bridge brings you up to the church

I crossed the beautiful bridge and headed inside but I stood still for a few minutes to appreciate the beauty of this gorgeous building. It was grand in every sense of the word. I heard from a guide that the original plan was to build a church twice the size of the current building but silver became less valuable and it was scaled back but even in this condition it is impressive.

I purchased the ticket and headed inside. Although, Kutna Hora was a town of silver miners the focus stayed on gold. The interior bathes you in golden. The interior was equally grand but simpler. There weren’t the Spanish style grand chapels but rather the focus was on an elegant altar.

I headed to the upper floor to spend some times with the golden angels and came back positively angelic with a glow of satisfaction on my face. Santa Barbara was rightfully placed on the UNESCO World Heritage list.

Walking around Kutna Hora City

I spent bout an hour in the church and then realised how hungry I was by that time so I headed out and started walking towards the city centre.

Outside the Church with city in the back

The architecture was beautiful and despite what I was expecting, buildings were in beautiful condition. I grabbed some lunch but to my surprise, most restaurants weren’t open and the ones there were didn’t have a lot of choices. IThe food was mediocre at best but it was time to forget about that and start exploring the city.

I got some green tea and sat down in the sun to get some rest next to this gorgeous pillar, I don’t even know what it is but it was beautiful. I was falling in love with this humanless city. The houses were colourful and streets very well maintained.

I walked around for an hour exploring different streets, pretty houses with flowers, old-style buildings, churches and whatnot. It was finally 5pm and I started walking towards the metro train station to take the local train back to the main station for my 6pm train.

The return journey was pretty uneventful and I returned happy on another amazing day of exploration to get some much-needed sleep.

Have you guys been to Kutna Hora? Do let me know if I missed something and if you’d like to go, do tell me how you found it.

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