One of the most scenic and amazing places you will find in Croatia and date I say in the whole of Europe! Hvar is a mini paradise that is not only unique but also so beautiful that made me ask how utterly, ridiculously and fantastically beautiful this place is, while sitting on top of the mountains overlooking this paradise island.
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Hvar works on two levels; the party island that can go on all day all night so much so that you get celebs like Beyoncé coming to experience the sunset at Hula Bar and the second is a serene island where you can watch the sun dawn and set in a hammock with only the sound of water waves breaking at the shore. How does that sound? I still haven’t been able to shake off the 2 and a half magical days I spent on Hvar sandwiched between Split and Dubrovnik.
When I was booking the trip, I wasn’t too sure about Hvar honestly because it seemed a bit like Mykonos or Ibiza where if you’re not too keen on partying there isn’t much to do other than lying on the beach but little did I know how Hvar is nothing like any other island I have been to. I saw some pictures, checked with some friends and reluctantly booked it considering it is the island with the best connection to land both from Split and Dubrovnik.
All Things Hvar
Getting to Hvar
Getting a to Hvar is easy by ferry or boat from neighbouring islands as well as the mainland. The ferry from Split goes directly to Hvar and the journey isn’t long. You will easily arrive at the main port of Hvar which is on the right side of the city centre and quite close to everything a tourist can do.
The schedule changes seasonally but ferries to and from Split and frequent at least. Rest you can check and book here.
Tip: The ferries to Hvar go to another city on the island called StariGrad which was the original capital, make sure you’re not going there and if you do there’s a bus that can bring you to the right place.
Despite being a party island there are gay bars and clubs and the gay population is a few local and some tourist guys which didn’t even cover the full screen of my iPhone. Everyone else was on another island or far but I didn’t care. There’s something about this place that makes you want to forget everything g and just relax and regenerate and rejuvenate. But yeah I wouldn’t go to Hvar for its gay scene ‘yet’.
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The town is small and there is no public transport. The island generally has some public transport but you have to go to the station to get a taxi or bus. I personally didn’t feel the need and didn’t bother. I mean why bother with taxis when you can walk on the beautiful trail right at the seashore, eh!
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The food scene is a bit of hit and miss, to be honest. There are a lot of good restaurants but generally, I found eating around at smaller establishments can be good and bad. One restaurant to try is Lungo Mare which was good especially for dinner with its amazing views but you definitely need a reservation.
Another really interesting thing that I came across was the Lavender ice cream. It was a bit of a weird experience at first with me contemplating. Whether I wanted to try it But I have in and it was quite a different taste but it wasn’t oily taste which I was expecting so that’s something fun.
Generally, you can get good and freshly grilled fish pretty much everywhere even on the tour as well as pasta, you won’t go hungry I promise.
I spent one day on this amazing tour that took us around on the speed boat and showed us the green cave, blue cave, Komizo town and last Palmizana beach area where we had lunch and then I returned back with some friends I made on the tour to party in the town.
The tour can be easily bought from the people selling on the seaside road in small shops. I left at 10 and came back at 6ish.
Tip: Make sure you take some water and cash with you because you will need to pay for Blue Cave separately.
We left for the Green cave which is the first stop and I dodged the bullet because I was being put with 2 married couples and luckily they found a third couple and went on the fun boat with 4 young American girls and our muscly tour guide and boat driver. It was an amazing day with beautiful views, good company and seeing some muscles through a white t-shirt whenever our guide got wet. The poor guy got a little nervous every single time we giggled at his wet wear. 😉
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Green Cave is 30-40 minutes away and really beautiful. It is a cave and it is green when you look at the Water inside (DUH!!!). Boats are allowed to go inside and you’re allowed to swim and since I suck at that, I sufficed with dipping my legs and taking pictures at the edge of the boat. Water is beautiful and clear and the day was really beautiful with the perfect temperature.
We stayed there for half an hour and then moved on to the blue cave.
Blue cave is slightly different but only a few minutes away from the green Cave. We were taken to the area where you buy the tickets and wait for your turn.
The entrance to the cave is narrow and you can go in the designated ships only in turns. We had to wait for a little so we decided to chill there. I went up to the top on the waiting area, up the hill I mean and I had to call other up. The view was perfect with turquoise and emerald waters overlapping and playing with each other with boats floating around.
Finally, we were called and we got in the shop to be taken to this ‘jewel’. We were told I duck in while getting inside and when I lifted my head we all just went wow in a trance. The Water is lit by natural blue light and the water is so clear I felt like I could touch the rocks by extending my hand knowing well it was 16 meters deep.
The trip is long enough for you to enjoy the view but the magic not to be broken.
Komiza Town & Beach
Next stop was this small town with a very tranquil beach with a few families and not a lot of tourists where we stopped for a bit. We walked around and grabbed a drink from a bar at the beach. The town had a beautiful seafront and I would love to build a house on top of the mountain, just think of the view. <3
Last stop on our tour was Palmizana Island and beach. The island has many folds creating the beautiful lagoons but I do remember we went to this other small but beautiful beach for swimming but it was crowded and we were hungry by then and the task of finding something to eat at Palmizana beach was still there. We arrived and the hunt began, the restaurants are nice but fully booked or they ask for hefty amounts per person but we finally managed to find a place with a bit of a view. The food was pretty good but the drinks were better or they just felt better. I was happy to have found the right people around me and when you have good company, good food, good views and amazing weather what else do you need?
We came back around 6 and after a brief nap, I got ready and headed to Falko Bar to meet the gal pals and watch the sunset at this beautiful island…
Tour –> Falko Beach Bar
Mustaco Beach –> Castle –> City –> Hula Hula Beach Bar
Things to do
The castle in Hvar is right on top of the hill and while the castle itself isn’t much the view from the top is to die for. You can either take the bus or taxi up there or you can walk up the mountain. The trail starts from the city centre and it is quite beautiful and a good way to digest your breakfast. A little under half an hour and I was on top of the hill outside the castle. You know the feeling where you feel the world halt to a still with nothing else happening other than a deep sense of peace and stillness; THAT HAPPENED!
If I have the chance to go back to do one thing on Hvar, it would be getting to the top and inhaling that view of this beautiful island, Adriatic’s blue water and the life on the tiny islands in front of it…
As soon as the sun goes down, Hvar turns into a party town. When I was there they had Ultra Europe Beach festival on so the place was busy but to make it even busier it was the annual Yacht week so Hvar was buzzing with full force. The sea from on the right hand of the port all the way to the end of the city is full of bars and clubs. Near the port, I saw a different lot of characters. The atmosphere was still very relaxed and honestly, the choice of bars is endless despite the fact there isn’t a single gay bar in Hvar.
Every few meters, Hvar will throw a beach at you. These are pebble beaches usually between the folds of mountains at seafront and most of them are not big especially the ones in the city centre but there are other beaches that are bigger and more amazing.
My favourite beach is a little bit of a walk from the city centre, roughly 30-40 minutes or you can get a scooter, quad bike or a taxi but I preferred to walk early in the morning to enjoy the views on the way. There are other smaller beaches on the way but I’d recommend not stopping there. I got there hungry enough to eat the whole island and after some good food at the restaurant around I headed to the beach which was fast filling up and grabbed a chair and a little splish-splash later, I was fast asleep. The restaurants are good and the water was crystal clear. Because it is a bit farther away from the city the beach is much cleaner.
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Hula Hula Beach Bar
I won’t say much in praise except for ‘If it is good for Beyonce it is good for me’ for the queen visited and partied here and there was no f*cking way I was going to miss the chance. Luckily, I met a guy on Grindr who is friends with the owner or the manager and I went with him. The sunset here was a different experience but an experience that includes drinks, drunk but happy people, getting wet, music and fun. This beach bar is considered one of the best in the world and world-renowned DJ’s come here to play.
Falko Beach Bar
Ahhh my flake bar, the beautiful Falko bar with its hammocks and the sunbeds outside with its super friendly and sweet staff and amazing drinks and those nibbles.
Falko is an amazing place to come and experience the sunset on Hvar in a more serene way, in a relaxed manner that makes you feel good about your whole day. Come a little early and snuggle in the hammock to enjoy the view with extra laziness. It is a further few minutes walk from Hula Hula which is a 5 minutes walk from the city centre.
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